What is tea tree oil in skincare?
Tea tree oil is an essential oil steam-distilled from the leaves of Melaleuca alternifolia, an Australian shrub used medicinally by Aboriginal communities long before it reached Western pharmacies.
Its active constituent is terpinen-4-ol, which accounts for most of its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity. Quality varies considerably between products, and oil that has oxidised is both less effective and more irritating.
What skin concerns does tea tree oil treat?
Acne is its best-supported use. A comparative trial against benzoyl peroxide found 5% tea tree oil produced a similar reduction in inflamed lesions, more slowly but with markedly fewer side effects.
It is also used for fungal conditions such as athlete’s foot and nail infections, for dandruff, and for insect bites and minor wounds. Its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory action makes it a reasonable spot treatment.
What ingredients are best paired with tea tree oil?
Never apply it undiluted – dilute to around 5% in a carrier such as jojoba or squalane. Pair it with niacinamide and salicylic acid for acne, and with ceramides to protect the barrier.
It is not suitable for delicate or very sensitive skin, and allergic contact dermatitis is relatively common, so always patch test. Store it in dark glass; oxidised tea tree oil is a well-documented sensitiser. Take our Skin Quiz.
What are age spots?
Age spots – known clinically as solar lentigines, and sometimes as liver spots – are flat, well-defined brown or tan patches that appear on skin with the most cumulative sun exposure: the face, backs of the hands, forearms, shoulders and upper chest.
Despite the name, they are not caused by age itself. They are a record of ultraviolet exposure, which is why they are common from the forties onward and why they cluster on areas that rarely get sunscreen.
What causes age spots?
Long-term UV exposure drives melanocytes to over-produce melanin in concentrated spots, and the surrounding keratinocytes stop clearing that pigment efficiently as skin ages.
Fair skin, a history of sunburns, tanning beds and outdoor work all raise the risk. Any new spot that changes shape, colour or size, bleeds or has an irregular border should be checked by a doctor rather than treated cosmetically.
What ingredients are best for age spots?
Topical treatment works but needs patience – expect three to six months. Retinoids speed turnover so pigmented cells shed faster, vitamin C and niacinamide brighten and protect, and alpha arbutin, kojic acid, azelaic acid and liquorice root inhibit new pigment.
Glycolic or lactic acid helps lift existing pigment from the surface. Daily broad-spectrum SPF, including on hands and chest, is what prevents new spots forming. Take our Skin Quiz.
