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Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant found in citrus fruits and leafy vegetables. Vitamin C is an important nutrient for healthy skin, bones, teeth and blood vessels. Vitamin C also goes by the name ascorbic acid and is commonly found in skincare products because it can help reduce the appearance of wrinkles & discoloration.
The two most common forms of Vitamin C are Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and L-Ascorbic Acid.
Vitamin C is an important component of a great skincare routine. This nutrient helps even out skin tone and reduce discoloration. Vitamin C as an antioxidant also protects skin from the negative consequences of pollution on our skin, such as wrinkles and dark spots. Vitamin C also acts as a hydration barrier, keeping your skin viable and pliable.
Vitamin C is known to help reduce discoloration in the skin. Studies have shown that using vitamin C on hyperpigmented skin can reduce discoloration by up to 60% in time. As a naturally occurring antioxidant, vitamin C inhibits certain steps of melanin formation, therefore stopping hyperpigmentation from occurring at a cellular level.
Vitamin C requires a low pH to be effective so it may be too irritating for sensitive skin.
Many traditional treatments for dark spots (bleaching chemicals) yield several moderate to severe side effects, while vitamin c rarely induces any side effects at all. The only downside is that vitamin C does not penetrate deeply into the skin very well, so it is only effective on some types of dark spots.
Melasma is a specific example of hyperpigmentation. Melasma looks like whole patches of brown or darker skin across the parts of the face and neck. Melasma is common among women who are pregnant - it’s even referred to as “the mask of pregnancy.” But melasma can occur in both men and women who are not pregnant, too. Melasma can be caused by UV damage, but there are also genetic, hormonal, and medication-induced causes for melasma, too.
There are a variety of topical ingredients that can be used to lighten the skin from melasma or reduce its appearance. Each ingredient works in different ways, and each has their own benefits and drawbacks. hydroquinone, arbutin, vitamin C (ascorbic acid, and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, etc) are some of the most commonly used ingredients for melasma treatment.
Hydroquinone is a skin lightening cream that works by suppressing the production of melanin. There are drawbacks to using hydroquinone, however, including cancer risks demonstrated by recent scientific studies, as well as hydroquinone-induced ochronosis.
Arbutin is a synthesized derivative of hydroquinone. It acts as a powerful skin lightening ointment that works a bit differently than hydroquinone. It blocks the production of melanin instead of “bleaching” the skin.
Vitamin C can be used as a brightening agent to lighten the hyperpigmentation of your sunspots or melasma. It works by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, preventing the formation of melatonin.
Ascorbic Acid is actually the formal scientific name for one form of Vitamin C. It can refer to either a naturally occurring Vitamin C found in foods such as citrus, or a synthetic form of ascorbic acid created to be more shelf-stable for skincare products like discoloration repair lotions and creams.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is another form of Vitamin C. By synthesizing this compound from Vitamin C, dermatologists are able to give us all the benefits of Vitamin C in a more shelf-stable form that can also be soluble in oil to make more effective, deeper penetrating skin products. (Herndon 2016)
Ingredients in the vitamin A family (ie. Retinol, tretinoin, etc) and acids (glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid) help damaged pigmented skin cells shred faster, so they also help with melasma.
vitamin C may be effective for melasma, but there are many other factors that may affect whether this ingredient would work on your skin or if there are better ingredients that may work for you. Take this skin quiz to find the best ingredients for your skin and build your skincare routine.
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