What is tea tree oil in skincare?
Tea tree oil is an essential oil steam-distilled from the leaves of Melaleuca alternifolia, an Australian shrub used medicinally by Aboriginal communities long before it reached Western pharmacies.
Its active constituent is terpinen-4-ol, which accounts for most of its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity. Quality varies considerably between products, and oil that has oxidised is both less effective and more irritating.
What skin concerns does tea tree oil treat?
Acne is its best-supported use. A comparative trial against benzoyl peroxide found 5% tea tree oil produced a similar reduction in inflamed lesions, more slowly but with markedly fewer side effects.
It is also used for fungal conditions such as athlete’s foot and nail infections, for dandruff, and for insect bites and minor wounds. Its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory action makes it a reasonable spot treatment.
What ingredients are best paired with tea tree oil?
Never apply it undiluted – dilute to around 5% in a carrier such as jojoba or squalane. Pair it with niacinamide and salicylic acid for acne, and with ceramides to protect the barrier.
It is not suitable for delicate or very sensitive skin, and allergic contact dermatitis is relatively common, so always patch test. Store it in dark glass; oxidised tea tree oil is a well-documented sensitiser. Take our Skin Quiz.
What is redness?
Facial redness is visible dilation of the small blood vessels near the skin’s surface. It ranges from transient flushing that comes and goes, to persistent erythema across the cheeks and nose, to fixed thread veins that stay visible all the time.
Redness is a symptom rather than a diagnosis. It can signal rosacea, irritation, an over-exfoliated barrier, eczema, an allergic reaction or simply reactive skin that responds strongly to heat and stress.
What causes redness?
Most persistent redness traces back to a compromised barrier and heightened nerve sensitivity. When the barrier thins, irritants penetrate more easily and the skin mounts an inflammatory response to things it would normally tolerate.
Common aggravators: over-exfoliation, high-strength actives used too often, fragrance and essential oils, hot water, alcohol, spicy food, sudden temperature change, sun exposure and stress. Trying to treat redness with more actives usually deepens it.
What ingredients are best for redness?
Prioritise calming and rebuilding over correcting. Niacinamide, azelaic acid, centella asiatica, green tea extract, liquorice root, allantoin, bisabolol and colloidal oatmeal all reduce visible inflammation.
Then repair the barrier with ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids, glycerin, panthenol and squalane, and protect it with a gentle mineral SPF. Strip the routine back to cleanser, moisturiser and sunscreen for a few weeks before reintroducing anything active. Take our Skin Quiz.
