What is tea tree oil in skincare?
Tea tree oil is an essential oil steam-distilled from the leaves of Melaleuca alternifolia, an Australian shrub used medicinally by Aboriginal communities long before it reached Western pharmacies.
Its active constituent is terpinen-4-ol, which accounts for most of its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity. Quality varies considerably between products, and oil that has oxidised is both less effective and more irritating.
What skin concerns does tea tree oil treat?
Acne is its best-supported use. A comparative trial against benzoyl peroxide found 5% tea tree oil produced a similar reduction in inflamed lesions, more slowly but with markedly fewer side effects.
It is also used for fungal conditions such as athlete’s foot and nail infections, for dandruff, and for insect bites and minor wounds. Its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory action makes it a reasonable spot treatment.
What ingredients are best paired with tea tree oil?
Never apply it undiluted – dilute to around 5% in a carrier such as jojoba or squalane. Pair it with niacinamide and salicylic acid for acne, and with ceramides to protect the barrier.
It is not suitable for delicate or very sensitive skin, and allergic contact dermatitis is relatively common, so always patch test. Store it in dark glass; oxidised tea tree oil is a well-documented sensitiser. Take our Skin Quiz.
What is melasma?
Melasma is a common form of acquired hyperpigmentation that appears as symmetrical brown or greyish-brown patches, most often across the cheeks, forehead, upper lip and jawline. It develops when melanocytes – the pigment-producing cells in the skin – become overactive and deposit excess melanin into the epidermis, the dermis, or both.
It is far more common in women and in medium to deeper skin tones, and it behaves as a chronic, relapsing condition rather than a one-off mark – which is why management matters as much as treatment.
What causes melasma?
Three triggers dominate: ultraviolet and visible light exposure, hormonal change (pregnancy, oral contraceptives and hormone therapy – hence its nickname, the mask of pregnancy), and genetic predisposition.
Heat, visible light from sunlight and screens, inflammation from harsh products or aggressive procedures, and certain medications all make existing patches worse. Because the triggers are ongoing, melasma typically fades and returns rather than clearing permanently.
What ingredients are best for melasma?
Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen is non-negotiable, and a tinted mineral SPF containing iron oxides is best because it also screens the visible light that drives pigment production.
On top of that, the most evidence-backed actives are tranexamic acid, azelaic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C, alpha arbutin, kojic acid, liquorice root extract, retinoids and gentle alpha-hydroxy acids. Avoid harsh scrubs and strong heat, both of which can rebound the pigment. Take our Skin Quiz to build a routine around your skin tone and triggers.
