What is sugar in skincare?
Sugar appears in skincare in two quite different roles. As granulated sucrose it is the base of countless body scrubs; as a chemical precursor it is where glycolic acid – the most studied alpha-hydroxy acid – originally comes from, extracted from sugar cane.
Sugar is also a natural humectant, which is why a sugar scrub leaves skin feeling softer than a salt one, and why honey and molasses behave the way they do on skin.
What skin concerns does sugar treat?
As a body scrub it lifts dead cells and smooths rough patches on elbows, knees and legs. Its crystals are rounder and dissolve faster than salt, so it is the gentler of the two physical exfoliants.
For the face, the derived acid is what matters. Glycolic acid resurfaces, brightens, fades pigmentation and stimulates collagen – none of which a sugar scrub does. Scrubbing facial skin with crystals creates micro-tears and inflammation instead.
What ingredients are best paired with sugar?
In a body scrub, combine it with an oil – coconut, almond, jojoba – which cushions the abrasion and moisturises as you rinse. Use it before shaving, not after, and never on broken or sunburnt skin.
For facial exfoliation, use a formulated AHA: glycolic acid for resilient skin, lactic acid for dry or sensitive skin, or a PHA if acids usually sting. All deliver what a scrub promises, without the mechanical damage. Take our Skin Quiz.
What is acne?
Acne vulgaris is a chronic inflammatory condition of the pilosebaceous unit – the hair follicle and its attached oil gland. It produces blackheads and whiteheads, inflamed papules and pustules, and in severe cases deep nodules and cysts.
It is the most common skin condition worldwide, and it is not a hygiene problem. Acne begins with a microcomedone forming invisibly inside the follicle, weeks before anything shows on the surface.
What causes acne?
Four mechanisms work together: excess sebum driven by androgens, abnormal shedding of cells inside the follicle, overgrowth of Cutibacterium acnes, and the inflammatory response that follows.
Genetics set the baseline. Hormonal fluctuation, stress, high-glycaemic diets, comedogenic products, friction from masks or helmets, and certain medications all push it further. Over-cleansing and picking make it visibly worse.
What ingredients are best for acne?
Salicylic acid clears inside the pore, benzoyl peroxide reduces bacterial load, and retinoids prevent the plug forming in the first place – that last one is the most valuable long-term.
Azelaic acid and niacinamide reduce inflammation and the marks left behind, and sulphur or clay help oily, congested skin. Keep the barrier intact with a gentle cleanser and a light non-comedogenic moisturiser; stripped skin produces more oil. Take our Skin Quiz.
