What is elastin in skincare?
Elastin is the dermal protein that lets skin stretch and snap back. It makes up a small fraction of dermal protein compared with collagen, but it does all the recoil – collagen provides strength, elastin provides spring.
The body essentially stops producing meaningful new elastin after adolescence, and existing fibres are progressively broken down by UV exposure in the process known as solar elastosis. That is why lost elasticity is harder to reverse than lost collagen.
What skin concerns does elastin treat?
Loss of elastin shows up as sagging, crepiness, skin that stays tented when pinched, and the loose texture around the jaw, neck and under-eyes.
Topical elastin cannot replace what has degraded – the molecule is far too large to reach the dermis – so in creams it acts as a humectant and film-former that smooths the surface. Oral elastin peptides have more support: a randomised placebo-controlled trial of fish-derived elastin peptide found improvements in biophysical properties of ageing skin.
What ingredients are best paired with elastin?
The practical route to elasticity is protecting and stimulating your own fibres. Retinoids and peptides signal fibroblasts to rebuild, vitamin C protects existing fibres from enzymatic breakdown, and daily broad-spectrum SPF prevents further elastosis.
Alongside those, hyaluronic acid, ceramides and squalane keep the skin hydrated and supple, which improves how elastic it looks day to day. Take our Skin Quiz.
What is dry skin?
Dry skin – xerosis in clinical terms – is a skin type that lacks oil rather than water. It feels tight after cleansing, looks flaky or rough, may show fine cracking, and often reads dull because the uneven surface scatters light.
It is worth separating dry skin from dehydrated skin: dryness is a lack of lipids and is usually lifelong, while dehydration is a temporary lack of water and can happen to oily skin too. Many people have both at once.
What causes dry skin?
At the root is a compromised moisture barrier. When ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids and natural moisturising factors run low, water evaporates out of the skin faster than it can be replaced.
Age, genetics, cold weather and low humidity, long hot showers, harsh surfactants, over-exfoliation, some medications, and conditions such as eczema and psoriasis all deplete those lipids. Consistent moisturising is the single intervention with the strongest evidence behind it.
What ingredients are best for dry skin?
Rebuild in layers. Humectants such as hyaluronic acid, glycerin, urea and panthenol draw water in; emollients such as squalane, jojoba oil and shea butter smooth the surface; and occlusives seal the whole thing in.
Ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids are the priority, because they replace exactly what a dry barrier is missing, with niacinamide helping the skin make more of its own. Apply to damp skin, and swap foaming cleansers for cream or oil-based ones. Take our Skin Quiz to find the right combination for your skin.
