What is glycolic acid in skincare?
Glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid derived from sugar cane. It has the smallest molecular size of the AHA family, which lets it penetrate the stratum corneum more readily than lactic or mandelic acid – and makes it both the most effective and the most likely to sting.
It works by dissolving the bonds holding dead cells to the surface, so they shed evenly instead of accumulating. Cosmetic strengths run from around 5% to 10%, with professional peels going considerably higher.
What skin concerns does glycolic acid treat?
It is one of the best-evidenced ingredients for dullness, rough texture and uneven tone, and it visibly brightens within a few uses. Over longer periods it fades sun spots and post-acne marks, softens fine lines and helps clear congestion.
Regular use also stimulates collagen production and thickens the deeper epidermis, so the benefit is structural as well as surface-level.
What ingredients are best paired with glycolic acid?
Follow it with hyaluronic acid, ceramides, glycerin and panthenol to replace what exfoliation costs the barrier. Niacinamide is a good companion for tone, and vitamin C works well on alternate days.
Do not stack it with retinoids, BHAs or benzoyl peroxide in the same step unless your skin is well conditioned, and start at twice a week. Glycolic acid increases sun sensitivity, so daily SPF is essential. Take our Skin Quiz.
What is adult acne?
Adult acne is acne that persists past the teenage years or appears for the first time in your twenties, thirties or later. It affects a substantial share of adults, and disproportionately women.
It tends to look different from teenage acne: fewer widespread blackheads, more deep tender lesions along the jawline, chin and neck, often on skin that is simultaneously dry, sensitive or already showing early signs of ageing.
What causes adult acne?
Hormonal fluctuation is the leading driver – menstrual cycles, coming off or starting contraception, pregnancy, perimenopause and conditions such as PCOS all shift androgen activity and sebum output.
Stress and cortisol, sleep debt, high-glycaemic diets, comedogenic makeup and skincare, friction, and certain medications compound it. Adult skin also heals more slowly, so marks linger longer than they did at nineteen.
What ingredients are best for adult acne?
The challenge is treating acne without wrecking a barrier that is also ageing. Retinoids do double duty here, clearing follicles and stimulating collagen at the same time.
Azelaic acid is excellent for adult skin because it handles lesions, redness and post-acne marks together. Add salicylic acid used sparingly, niacinamide to regulate oil and calm inflammation, and ceramides plus hyaluronic acid to keep hydration up. Skip harsh benzoyl peroxide concentrations and scrubs. Take our Skin Quiz.