What is coconut oil in skincare?
Coconut oil is extracted from the dried flesh of the coconut. It is unusual among plant oils in being mostly saturated fat – around half of it is lauric acid, a medium-chain fatty acid with strong antimicrobial activity.
Virgin coconut oil retains more of its polyphenols than refined. It is solid at room temperature, melts on contact with skin, and is highly occlusive, which is both its main strength and its main problem.
What skin concerns does coconut oil treat?
On dry body skin, hands, feet and cuticles it is an effective occlusive that reduces water loss, and research on plant oils credits it with anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects, including activity relevant to atopic dermatitis.
On the face it is a different story: coconut oil rates high on the comedogenic scale and reliably causes congestion and breakouts in oily and acne-prone skin. Its lauric acid does inhibit acne bacteria, but the pore-clogging usually outweighs that.
What ingredients are best paired with coconut oil?
Treat it as a body occlusive. Apply it over a humectant such as glycerin or hyaluronic acid on damp skin, or over a ceramide lotion, so it seals rather than sits.
For the face, choose non-comedogenic alternatives: squalane, jojoba, rosehip or grapeseed oil give emollience without the congestion. It is also a good pre-shampoo hair treatment. Take our Skin Quiz.
What is redness?
Facial redness is visible dilation of the small blood vessels near the skin’s surface. It ranges from transient flushing that comes and goes, to persistent erythema across the cheeks and nose, to fixed thread veins that stay visible all the time.
Redness is a symptom rather than a diagnosis. It can signal rosacea, irritation, an over-exfoliated barrier, eczema, an allergic reaction or simply reactive skin that responds strongly to heat and stress.
What causes redness?
Most persistent redness traces back to a compromised barrier and heightened nerve sensitivity. When the barrier thins, irritants penetrate more easily and the skin mounts an inflammatory response to things it would normally tolerate.
Common aggravators: over-exfoliation, high-strength actives used too often, fragrance and essential oils, hot water, alcohol, spicy food, sudden temperature change, sun exposure and stress. Trying to treat redness with more actives usually deepens it.
What ingredients are best for redness?
Prioritise calming and rebuilding over correcting. Niacinamide, azelaic acid, centella asiatica, green tea extract, liquorice root, allantoin, bisabolol and colloidal oatmeal all reduce visible inflammation.
Then repair the barrier with ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids, glycerin, panthenol and squalane, and protect it with a gentle mineral SPF. Strip the routine back to cleanser, moisturiser and sunscreen for a few weeks before reintroducing anything active. Take our Skin Quiz.
