What is tretinoin in skincare?
Tretinoin is all-trans retinoic acid – the biologically active form of vitamin A, and the only one that binds directly to retinoic acid receptors without needing conversion by the skin. It is available on prescription rather than over the counter.
It was the first topical treatment proven to reverse signs of photoageing, and remains the benchmark against which every other anti-ageing active is measured. Common strengths are 0.025%, 0.05% and 0.1%.
What skin concerns does tretinoin treat?
It treats acne at every severity by normalising how follicles shed, and it is extensively documented for photoageing – fine lines, wrinkles, roughness, sallowness and mottled pigmentation.
A vehicle-controlled comparison found 0.025% delivered improvement similar to 0.1% with markedly less irritation, so higher strength is not automatically better.
What ingredients are best paired with tretinoin?
Support the barrier hard: ceramides, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, panthenol and squalane make the retinisation period far more tolerable. Applying moisturiser before tretinoin (the sandwich method) reduces irritation without eliminating benefit.
Use at night, start two or three times a week, and never skip morning SPF. Do not combine with AHAs, BHAs or benzoyl peroxide in the same application, and do not use it if you are pregnant or trying to conceive. Take our Skin Quiz.
What is melasma?
Melasma is a common form of acquired hyperpigmentation that appears as symmetrical brown or greyish-brown patches, most often across the cheeks, forehead, upper lip and jawline. It develops when melanocytes – the pigment-producing cells in the skin – become overactive and deposit excess melanin into the epidermis, the dermis, or both.
It is far more common in women and in medium to deeper skin tones, and it behaves as a chronic, relapsing condition rather than a one-off mark – which is why management matters as much as treatment.
What causes melasma?
Three triggers dominate: ultraviolet and visible light exposure, hormonal change (pregnancy, oral contraceptives and hormone therapy – hence its nickname, the mask of pregnancy), and genetic predisposition.
Heat, visible light from sunlight and screens, inflammation from harsh products or aggressive procedures, and certain medications all make existing patches worse. Because the triggers are ongoing, melasma typically fades and returns rather than clearing permanently.
What ingredients are best for melasma?
Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen is non-negotiable, and a tinted mineral SPF containing iron oxides is best because it also screens the visible light that drives pigment production.
On top of that, the most evidence-backed actives are tranexamic acid, azelaic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C, alpha arbutin, kojic acid, liquorice root extract, retinoids and gentle alpha-hydroxy acids. Avoid harsh scrubs and strong heat, both of which can rebound the pigment. Take our Skin Quiz to build a routine around your skin tone and triggers.
