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Hydroquinone is a medication used in topical skin creams to lighten or bleach dark spots on the skin. It works by suppressing the production of melanin by melanocytes.
Studies have shown that hydroquinone can improve photodamage from 30-70%, including reducing hyperpigmentation, texture, fine lines, dryness, tone, and clarity of the skin. (Gladstone et al)
Hydroquinone is good for giving your face and neck a more even complexion. It helps with lightening dark spots on the skin from hyperpigmentation, melasma, or sun damage. It is used in dark spot correctors and melasma treatment. Hydroquinone can also help smooth rough skin. Lastly, hydroquinone has been shown to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by revealing a more even complexion and an overall bright, more youthful appearance.
There are some drawbacks to using hydroquinone.
Hydroquinone can cause redness, irritation, inflammation, and burning of the skin.
In rare instances, using this medication over years has actually caused the skin of some people to develop bluish-black patches, called ochronosis. This condition seems to occur with people of darker skin tones in general.
There has also been controversy in the past over whether hydroquinone has carcinogenic properties. In recent scientific studies, it has been shown that long-term use of hydroquinone could increase the chance of developing cancer. Therefore, this should be the last resort when other skin-brightening ingredients don't work for you.
Melasma is a specific example of hyperpigmentation. Melasma looks like whole patches of brown or darker skin across the parts of the face and neck. Melasma is common among women who are pregnant - it’s even referred to as “the mask of pregnancy.” But melasma can occur in both men and women who are not pregnant, too. Melasma can be caused by UV damage, but there are also genetic, hormonal, and medication-induced causes for melasma, too.
There are a variety of topical ingredients that can be used to lighten the skin from melasma or reduce its appearance. Each ingredient works in different ways, and each has their own benefits and drawbacks. hydroquinone, arbutin, vitamin C (ascorbic acid, and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, etc) are some of the most commonly used ingredients for melasma treatment.
Hydroquinone is a skin lightening cream that works by suppressing the production of melanin. There are drawbacks to using hydroquinone, however, including cancer risks demonstrated by recent scientific studies, as well as hydroquinone-induced ochronosis.
Arbutin is a synthesized derivative of hydroquinone. It acts as a powerful skin lightening ointment that works a bit differently than hydroquinone. It blocks the production of melanin instead of “bleaching” the skin.
Vitamin C can be used as a brightening agent to lighten the hyperpigmentation of your sunspots or melasma. It works by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, preventing the formation of melatonin.
Ascorbic Acid is actually the formal scientific name for one form of Vitamin C. It can refer to either a naturally occurring Vitamin C found in foods such as citrus, or a synthetic form of ascorbic acid created to be more shelf-stable for skincare products like discoloration repair lotions and creams.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is another form of Vitamin C. By synthesizing this compound from Vitamin C, dermatologists are able to give us all the benefits of Vitamin C in a more shelf-stable form that can also be soluble in oil to make more effective, deeper penetrating skin products. (Herndon 2016)
Ingredients in the vitamin A family (ie. Retinol, tretinoin, etc) and acids (glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid) help damaged pigmented skin cells shred faster, so they also help with melasma.
hydroquinone may be effective for melasma, but there are many other factors that may affect whether this ingredient would work on your skin or if there are better ingredients that may work for you. Take this skin quiz to find the best ingredients for your skin and build your skincare routine.
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