What is hyaluronic acid in skincare?
Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan that occurs naturally in skin, joints and connective tissue. It is a humectant of remarkable capacity, able to hold many times its own weight in water, which is why it sits in the hydrating step of almost every modern routine.
Molecular weight determines behaviour: high-molecular-weight HA forms a moisture-holding film on the surface, while low-molecular-weight fragments penetrate further for hydration in the deeper epidermis. Good formulas blend several weights.
What skin concerns does hyaluronic acid treat?
It addresses dehydration in any skin type, including oily and acne-prone skin that cannot tolerate heavy oils. Hydrated skin cells sit plumper against one another, which immediately softens the look of fine lines and improves how the face reflects light.
It also supports barrier function and wound healing, and it makes stronger actives – retinoids, acids – far more tolerable by keeping the skin comfortable alongside them.
What ingredients are best paired with hyaluronic acid?
Hyaluronic acid pulls water in but cannot hold it there alone, so always seal it with an occlusive or emollient: ceramides, squalane, shea butter or a simple moisturiser applied straight after.
It layers well with almost everything – vitamin C, niacinamide, retinoids, peptides and AHAs. Apply it to damp skin, and in a very dry climate keep a moisturiser over the top, or it can draw moisture out of the skin rather than into it. Take our Skin Quiz.
What is cystic acne?
Cystic acne is the most severe form of inflammatory acne. Instead of surface pimples, it produces deep, tender nodules and fluid-filled cysts that sit under the skin, often without ever coming to a head.
It happens when a blocked follicle ruptures deep in the dermis and spills sebum, keratin and bacteria into surrounding tissue, triggering a strong immune inflammatory response. Because the damage is deep, cystic acne is the type most likely to scar.
What causes cystic acne?
The same four factors behind all acne, amplified: excess sebum, abnormal shedding inside the follicle, overgrowth of Cutibacterium acnes, and inflammation. Androgens drive sebum production, which is why cystic acne often tracks with hormonal cycles, PCOS or puberty.
Genetics strongly influence severity, and stress, high-glycaemic diets, occlusive products and picking at lesions all make it worse. Squeezing a cyst pushes the contents deeper and reliably increases scarring.
What ingredients are best for cystic acne?
Cystic acne genuinely warrants a dermatologist – oral treatment is often needed. Alongside that, topical retinoids are the most useful over-the-counter active, because they work on the plug before it ruptures.
Benzoyl peroxide reduces bacterial load, azelaic acid calms inflammation and post-acne marks, and niacinamide helps redness without irritation. Keep the rest of the routine gentle and barrier-focused – harsh scrubs and drying alcohol make deep lesions angrier. Take our Skin Quiz.
