What is hyaluronic acid in skincare?
Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan that occurs naturally in skin, joints and connective tissue. It is a humectant of remarkable capacity, able to hold many times its own weight in water, which is why it sits in the hydrating step of almost every modern routine.
Molecular weight determines behaviour: high-molecular-weight HA forms a moisture-holding film on the surface, while low-molecular-weight fragments penetrate further for hydration in the deeper epidermis. Good formulas blend several weights.
What skin concerns does hyaluronic acid treat?
It addresses dehydration in any skin type, including oily and acne-prone skin that cannot tolerate heavy oils. Hydrated skin cells sit plumper against one another, which immediately softens the look of fine lines and improves how the face reflects light.
It also supports barrier function and wound healing, and it makes stronger actives – retinoids, acids – far more tolerable by keeping the skin comfortable alongside them.
What ingredients are best paired with hyaluronic acid?
Hyaluronic acid pulls water in but cannot hold it there alone, so always seal it with an occlusive or emollient: ceramides, squalane, shea butter or a simple moisturiser applied straight after.
It layers well with almost everything – vitamin C, niacinamide, retinoids, peptides and AHAs. Apply it to damp skin, and in a very dry climate keep a moisturiser over the top, or it can draw moisture out of the skin rather than into it. Take our Skin Quiz.
What are age spots?
Age spots – known clinically as solar lentigines, and sometimes as liver spots – are flat, well-defined brown or tan patches that appear on skin with the most cumulative sun exposure: the face, backs of the hands, forearms, shoulders and upper chest.
Despite the name, they are not caused by age itself. They are a record of ultraviolet exposure, which is why they are common from the forties onward and why they cluster on areas that rarely get sunscreen.
What causes age spots?
Long-term UV exposure drives melanocytes to over-produce melanin in concentrated spots, and the surrounding keratinocytes stop clearing that pigment efficiently as skin ages.
Fair skin, a history of sunburns, tanning beds and outdoor work all raise the risk. Any new spot that changes shape, colour or size, bleeds or has an irregular border should be checked by a doctor rather than treated cosmetically.
What ingredients are best for age spots?
Topical treatment works but needs patience – expect three to six months. Retinoids speed turnover so pigmented cells shed faster, vitamin C and niacinamide brighten and protect, and alpha arbutin, kojic acid, azelaic acid and liquorice root inhibit new pigment.
Glycolic or lactic acid helps lift existing pigment from the surface. Daily broad-spectrum SPF, including on hands and chest, is what prevents new spots forming. Take our Skin Quiz.
