What is glycolic acid in skincare?
Glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid derived from sugar cane. It has the smallest molecular size of the AHA family, which lets it penetrate the stratum corneum more readily than lactic or mandelic acid – and makes it both the most effective and the most likely to sting.
It works by dissolving the bonds holding dead cells to the surface, so they shed evenly instead of accumulating. Cosmetic strengths run from around 5% to 10%, with professional peels going considerably higher.
What skin concerns does glycolic acid treat?
It is one of the best-evidenced ingredients for dullness, rough texture and uneven tone, and it visibly brightens within a few uses. Over longer periods it fades sun spots and post-acne marks, softens fine lines and helps clear congestion.
Regular use also stimulates collagen production and thickens the deeper epidermis, so the benefit is structural as well as surface-level.
What ingredients are best paired with glycolic acid?
Follow it with hyaluronic acid, ceramides, glycerin and panthenol to replace what exfoliation costs the barrier. Niacinamide is a good companion for tone, and vitamin C works well on alternate days.
Do not stack it with retinoids, BHAs or benzoyl peroxide in the same step unless your skin is well conditioned, and start at twice a week. Glycolic acid increases sun sensitivity, so daily SPF is essential. Take our Skin Quiz.
What are sun spots?
Sun spots are flat patches of concentrated pigment that form where skin has taken the most ultraviolet exposure – cheeks, nose, forehead, hands, shoulders and chest. Dermatologists call them solar lentigines; they are the same thing as age spots.
They are harmless, but they are a visible marker of accumulated photodamage, and they usually arrive alongside other signs of it: fine lines, loss of firmness and an uneven overall tone.
What causes sun spots?
UV radiation prompts melanocytes to produce extra melanin as a defence. With repeated exposure that response becomes localised and fixed, leaving discrete patches instead of an even tan that fades.
Tanning beds, sunburns in childhood, fair skin and outdoor time without protection all increase the count. Incidental exposure – driving, walking, sitting near a window – adds up more than most people expect.
What ingredients are best for sun spots?
Retinoids to accelerate turnover, vitamin C to protect and brighten, and pigment inhibitors such as alpha arbutin, kojic acid, azelaic acid, tranexamic acid and liquorice root are the core toolkit.
Gentle AHAs help shift surface pigment, and niacinamide slows the transfer of melanin into skin cells. None of it holds without daily broad-spectrum SPF and reapplication. Take our Skin Quiz.