What is glycerin in skincare?
Glycerin, also called glycerol, is a clear, odourless humectant found naturally in skin lipids and produced commercially from plant oils or by synthesis. It is one of the most widely used ingredients in cosmetics, and one of the best studied.
It draws water into the stratum corneum and holds it there, and it also helps regulate how skin cells mature and shed. Research on glycerol and the skin shows it does considerably more than simply attract moisture.
What skin concerns does glycerin treat?
It relieves dryness, tightness and flaking in every skin type, and it improves barrier function measurably – a controlled study of 20% glycerin cream found gains in both hydration and barrier properties.
It is gentle enough for eczema-prone, sensitive and post-procedure skin, and light enough for oily and acne-prone skin. It also softens the feel of fine lines by plumping dehydrated cells.
What ingredients are best paired with glycerin?
It works best in the classic humectant-emollient-occlusive sequence: glycerin and hyaluronic acid to draw water in, ceramides and squalane to hold the barrier together, and a richer occlusive on top if skin is very dry.
Glycerin also makes exfoliating acids and retinoids far more tolerable. Unlike hyaluronic acid it performs reliably even in low humidity, which is why it remains the workhorse humectant in most formulations. Take our Skin Quiz.
What is melasma?
Melasma is a common form of acquired hyperpigmentation that appears as symmetrical brown or greyish-brown patches, most often across the cheeks, forehead, upper lip and jawline. It develops when melanocytes – the pigment-producing cells in the skin – become overactive and deposit excess melanin into the epidermis, the dermis, or both.
It is far more common in women and in medium to deeper skin tones, and it behaves as a chronic, relapsing condition rather than a one-off mark – which is why management matters as much as treatment.
What causes melasma?
Three triggers dominate: ultraviolet and visible light exposure, hormonal change (pregnancy, oral contraceptives and hormone therapy – hence its nickname, the mask of pregnancy), and genetic predisposition.
Heat, visible light from sunlight and screens, inflammation from harsh products or aggressive procedures, and certain medications all make existing patches worse. Because the triggers are ongoing, melasma typically fades and returns rather than clearing permanently.
What ingredients are best for melasma?
Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen is non-negotiable, and a tinted mineral SPF containing iron oxides is best because it also screens the visible light that drives pigment production.
On top of that, the most evidence-backed actives are tranexamic acid, azelaic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C, alpha arbutin, kojic acid, liquorice root extract, retinoids and gentle alpha-hydroxy acids. Avoid harsh scrubs and strong heat, both of which can rebound the pigment. Take our Skin Quiz to build a routine around your skin tone and triggers.
