What is collagen in skincare?
Collagen is the structural protein that makes up roughly three-quarters of the skin’s dry weight. It forms the scaffolding in the dermis that keeps skin firm, thick and resilient, and production begins declining from the mid-twenties.
In products it appears either as hydrolysed collagen – broken into smaller peptides – or as an oral supplement. Whole collagen molecules are far too large to cross the skin barrier, so topical collagen works as a humectant and film-former rather than by replacing what you have lost.
What skin concerns does collagen treat?
Applied topically, hydrolysed collagen hydrates the surface and temporarily plumps fine lines, improving smoothness and how skin reflects light.
Taken orally the evidence is stronger: a systematic review and meta-analysis of randomised trials found hydrolysed collagen supplementation improved skin hydration and elasticity, with most studies running eight to twelve weeks.
What ingredients are best paired with collagen?
Vitamin C is the essential partner, because it is a required cofactor for the enzymes that cross-link collagen – without it, your body cannot build collagen regardless of intake.
Retinoids and peptides stimulate fibroblasts to produce more of their own, which does more for firmness than any collagen you apply. Hyaluronic acid, ceramides and daily SPF protect what is already there. Take our Skin Quiz.
What is dry skin?
Dry skin – xerosis in clinical terms – is a skin type that lacks oil rather than water. It feels tight after cleansing, looks flaky or rough, may show fine cracking, and often reads dull because the uneven surface scatters light.
It is worth separating dry skin from dehydrated skin: dryness is a lack of lipids and is usually lifelong, while dehydration is a temporary lack of water and can happen to oily skin too. Many people have both at once.
What causes dry skin?
At the root is a compromised moisture barrier. When ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids and natural moisturising factors run low, water evaporates out of the skin faster than it can be replaced.
Age, genetics, cold weather and low humidity, long hot showers, harsh surfactants, over-exfoliation, some medications, and conditions such as eczema and psoriasis all deplete those lipids. Consistent moisturising is the single intervention with the strongest evidence behind it.
What ingredients are best for dry skin?
Rebuild in layers. Humectants such as hyaluronic acid, glycerin, urea and panthenol draw water in; emollients such as squalane, jojoba oil and shea butter smooth the surface; and occlusives seal the whole thing in.
Ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids are the priority, because they replace exactly what a dry barrier is missing, with niacinamide helping the skin make more of its own. Apply to damp skin, and swap foaming cleansers for cream or oil-based ones. Take our Skin Quiz to find the right combination for your skin.
