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Collagen is the main structural protein in human connective tissues, most notably our skin. The vast majority of the collagen in our skin is found in the dermis the second layer of skin that sits beneath the epidermis), where it's also produced. Skin cells in the dermis (fibroblasts) synthesize the collagen that holds the rest of the dermis together, giving our skin its underlying structure.
As for the structure of collagen itself, it’s kind of like a braid or rope: Individual amino acids link up to form long chains, which bundle together to form thicker strands. Those strands then twist and coil around each other to form triple helices. Finally, those helices connect end to end and stack on top of each other to form clusters called fibrils. In other words, collagen is a pretty complex and massive molecule.
That’s why creams formulated with pure collagen simply can’t live up to their lofty claims— those huge braided molecules are just too big to penetrate your epidermis, and definitely too big to get down into the dermis where the real magic happens. So even though collagen creams feel nice and may help moisturize the skin, that’s about it in terms of benefits.
A scar can form anywhere the skin is broken deeply enough to damage surrounding skin cells. With acne, most superficial blemishes will heal cleanly, leaving no visible evidence of prior breakouts. However, in the case of cystic acne, when a clogged pore leads to infection that travels deep into the dermis, ruptured cysts can break the follicle wall and cause the infection to damage surrounding skin cells. Collagen helps to repair the damage but leaves the skin more firm and tight than the rest of your skin. Some types of acne scarring leave a concave shape, called a pockmark. Contrary to some belief, not all acne scars are caused by picking or popping your blemishes. Some occur even if the acne is allowed to heal without picking.
To prevent sun damage from making acne scars more visible, it’s best to moisturize daily and wear sunscreen. Additionally, antioxidants protect the skin from free radicals that damage cells and speed up aging. Ingredients and nutrients like acai oil, alpha-lipoic acid, green tea extract, retinol/vitamin A, coenzyme Q10, caffeine, alpha-hydroxy acid and salicylic acid are all beneficial for preventing and reducing acne scarring. Jojoba oil is also good for reducing inflammation, fighting bacteria, and keeping in moisture for healthier skin.
collagen may be effective for acne scars, but there are many other factors that may affect whether this ingredient would work on your skin or if there are better ingredients that may work for you. Take this skin quiz to find the best ingredients for your skin and build your skincare routine.
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