What is coffee in skincare?
Coffee reaches skincare in two forms: ground coffee beans used as a physical exfoliant, and caffeine or green coffee extract used as an active. The two work quite differently.
The grounds provide abrasion; the active fraction provides antioxidant and vasoconstrictive effects. Coffee is also rich in chlorogenic acid, a polyphenol with anti-inflammatory and free-radical scavenging activity.
What skin concerns does coffee treat?
As an active, caffeine reduces puffiness and the appearance of under-eye darkness by constricting small blood vessels, and it is used in body products to temporarily smooth cellulite. Its antioxidants help defend against photo-damage.
As a scrub, ground coffee lifts dead cells and improves texture on the body. On the face the particles are too coarse and irregular for most people – they create micro-tears that inflame skin and worsen the texture they were meant to fix.
What ingredients are best paired with coffee?
For the eye area, pair caffeine with peptides, niacinamide and hyaluronic acid – dehydrated under-eyes look darker no matter what the circulation is doing.
For body scrubs, coffee grounds are usually blended with sugar and an oil such as coconut or almond to soften the abrasion. On the face, use a chemical exfoliant – lactic or salicylic acid – instead. Take our Skin Quiz.
What are age spots?
Age spots – known clinically as solar lentigines, and sometimes as liver spots – are flat, well-defined brown or tan patches that appear on skin with the most cumulative sun exposure: the face, backs of the hands, forearms, shoulders and upper chest.
Despite the name, they are not caused by age itself. They are a record of ultraviolet exposure, which is why they are common from the forties onward and why they cluster on areas that rarely get sunscreen.
What causes age spots?
Long-term UV exposure drives melanocytes to over-produce melanin in concentrated spots, and the surrounding keratinocytes stop clearing that pigment efficiently as skin ages.
Fair skin, a history of sunburns, tanning beds and outdoor work all raise the risk. Any new spot that changes shape, colour or size, bleeds or has an irregular border should be checked by a doctor rather than treated cosmetically.
What ingredients are best for age spots?
Topical treatment works but needs patience – expect three to six months. Retinoids speed turnover so pigmented cells shed faster, vitamin C and niacinamide brighten and protect, and alpha arbutin, kojic acid, azelaic acid and liquorice root inhibit new pigment.
Glycolic or lactic acid helps lift existing pigment from the surface. Daily broad-spectrum SPF, including on hands and chest, is what prevents new spots forming. Take our Skin Quiz.
