What is coconut oil in skincare?
Coconut oil is extracted from the dried flesh of the coconut. It is unusual among plant oils in being mostly saturated fat – around half of it is lauric acid, a medium-chain fatty acid with strong antimicrobial activity.
Virgin coconut oil retains more of its polyphenols than refined. It is solid at room temperature, melts on contact with skin, and is highly occlusive, which is both its main strength and its main problem.
What skin concerns does coconut oil treat?
On dry body skin, hands, feet and cuticles it is an effective occlusive that reduces water loss, and research on plant oils credits it with anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects, including activity relevant to atopic dermatitis.
On the face it is a different story: coconut oil rates high on the comedogenic scale and reliably causes congestion and breakouts in oily and acne-prone skin. Its lauric acid does inhibit acne bacteria, but the pore-clogging usually outweighs that.
What ingredients are best paired with coconut oil?
Treat it as a body occlusive. Apply it over a humectant such as glycerin or hyaluronic acid on damp skin, or over a ceramide lotion, so it seals rather than sits.
For the face, choose non-comedogenic alternatives: squalane, jojoba, rosehip or grapeseed oil give emollience without the congestion. It is also a good pre-shampoo hair treatment. Take our Skin Quiz.
What is melasma?
Melasma is a common form of acquired hyperpigmentation that appears as symmetrical brown or greyish-brown patches, most often across the cheeks, forehead, upper lip and jawline. It develops when melanocytes – the pigment-producing cells in the skin – become overactive and deposit excess melanin into the epidermis, the dermis, or both.
It is far more common in women and in medium to deeper skin tones, and it behaves as a chronic, relapsing condition rather than a one-off mark – which is why management matters as much as treatment.
What causes melasma?
Three triggers dominate: ultraviolet and visible light exposure, hormonal change (pregnancy, oral contraceptives and hormone therapy – hence its nickname, the mask of pregnancy), and genetic predisposition.
Heat, visible light from sunlight and screens, inflammation from harsh products or aggressive procedures, and certain medications all make existing patches worse. Because the triggers are ongoing, melasma typically fades and returns rather than clearing permanently.
What ingredients are best for melasma?
Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen is non-negotiable, and a tinted mineral SPF containing iron oxides is best because it also screens the visible light that drives pigment production.
On top of that, the most evidence-backed actives are tranexamic acid, azelaic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C, alpha arbutin, kojic acid, liquorice root extract, retinoids and gentle alpha-hydroxy acids. Avoid harsh scrubs and strong heat, both of which can rebound the pigment. Take our Skin Quiz to build a routine around your skin tone and triggers.
