What is castor oil in skincare?
Castor oil is pressed from the seeds of Ricinus communis. It is chemically unlike any other common plant oil: around 90% of it is ricinoleic acid, an unusual hydroxylated fatty acid that gives castor oil its extreme thickness and its distinctive properties.
That hydroxyl group makes it both an occlusive and a humectant – it seals the surface while also attracting water – and gives it genuine anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity.
What skin concerns does castor oil treat?
It excels on very dry, cracked or chapped skin, lips, cuticles and heels, where a thick occlusive is exactly what is needed. Its anti-inflammatory action also helps irritated patches.
It is a component of many oil cleansers because it dissolves sebum and makeup effectively. On its own it is far too heavy and sticky for facial moisturising, and it can congest pores if left on oily skin.
What ingredients are best paired with castor oil?
In cleansing balms it is diluted with lighter oils – sunflower, jojoba or sweet almond – usually at 10 to 30%, since undiluted castor oil is drying on the face despite being an oil.
For dry patches, apply it over a hydrating layer so it seals moisture rather than sealing dryness in. Pair with shea butter or ceramides for hands, feet and lips. Take our Skin Quiz.
What is cystic acne?
Cystic acne is the most severe form of inflammatory acne. Instead of surface pimples, it produces deep, tender nodules and fluid-filled cysts that sit under the skin, often without ever coming to a head.
It happens when a blocked follicle ruptures deep in the dermis and spills sebum, keratin and bacteria into surrounding tissue, triggering a strong immune inflammatory response. Because the damage is deep, cystic acne is the type most likely to scar.
What causes cystic acne?
The same four factors behind all acne, amplified: excess sebum, abnormal shedding inside the follicle, overgrowth of Cutibacterium acnes, and inflammation. Androgens drive sebum production, which is why cystic acne often tracks with hormonal cycles, PCOS or puberty.
Genetics strongly influence severity, and stress, high-glycaemic diets, occlusive products and picking at lesions all make it worse. Squeezing a cyst pushes the contents deeper and reliably increases scarring.
What ingredients are best for cystic acne?
Cystic acne genuinely warrants a dermatologist – oral treatment is often needed. Alongside that, topical retinoids are the most useful over-the-counter active, because they work on the plug before it ruptures.
Benzoyl peroxide reduces bacterial load, azelaic acid calms inflammation and post-acne marks, and niacinamide helps redness without irritation. Keep the rest of the routine gentle and barrier-focused – harsh scrubs and drying alcohol make deep lesions angrier. Take our Skin Quiz.
