What is BHA in skincare?
BHA stands for beta-hydroxy acid, and in skincare it almost always means salicylic acid. The defining difference from AHAs is solubility: BHA dissolves in oil, so it can move through sebum and exfoliate inside the pore rather than only on the surface.
It is also anti-inflammatory, which is why a blemish treated with BHA often looks less angry as well as less congested. Typical over-the-counter strengths are 0.5% to 2%.
What skin concerns does BHA treat?
Blackheads, whiteheads, congestion and mild to moderate acne respond best, because BHA clears the plug where it forms. It also smooths rough texture, helps keratosis pilaris and manages body and back breakouts.
Oily and combination skin see the most benefit, though even dry skin can use a low-strength BHA occasionally for congestion around the nose and chin.
What ingredients are best paired with BHA?
Niacinamide is the natural partner – it regulates oil and strengthens the barrier without competing. Hyaluronic acid, ceramides and glycerin replace the moisture exfoliation costs.
Azelaic acid and benzoyl peroxide complement it for acne, usually used at opposite ends of the day. Avoid stacking BHA with AHAs or retinoids in one step until your skin is used to it, and wear SPF daily. Take our Skin Quiz.
What is oily skin?
Oily skin is a skin type in which the sebaceous glands produce more sebum than the skin needs. It shows up as shine through the T-zone within hours of cleansing, visibly enlarged pores, makeup that slides or separates, and a tendency towards blackheads and congestion.
Sebum itself is not the enemy – it carries vitamin E to the surface, keeps the barrier supple and helps oily skin hold its structure, which is why it often shows fine lines later than dry skin does.
What causes oily skin?
Genetics and androgen activity are the primary drivers of how much sebum your glands produce. Heat and humidity increase output measurably, and hormonal fluctuations across the monthly cycle, pregnancy or puberty shift it again.
Stress, a diet heavy in refined carbohydrates, and – counter-intuitively – over-cleansing with stripping foams or alcohol-based toners all push oil production up, because skin compensates for a damaged barrier by making more.
What ingredients are best for oily skin?
Look for salicylic acid (a BHA that is oil-soluble, so it clears inside the pore), niacinamide and zinc to regulate sebum, clay such as bentonite or kaolin for weekly absorption, and retinoids or azelaic acid to normalise how pores shed.
Do not skip hydration: lightweight humectants like hyaluronic acid and glycerin, plus non-comedogenic squalane or jojoba oil, keep the barrier intact so the skin stops over-compensating. Skip heavy occlusive balms and high-alcohol toners. Take our Skin Quiz to get the balance right for your skin.