What is bakuchiol in skincare?
Bakuchiol is a plant-derived compound extracted from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, long used in Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicine. It is structurally nothing like vitamin A, but gene-expression profiling shows it switches on many of the same pathways as retinol.
That is why it is marketed as a natural retinol alternative. It is stable in light, tolerated in pregnancy far more readily than retinoids, and does not cause the peeling phase.
What skin concerns does bakuchiol treat?
A randomised double-blind trial comparing bakuchiol with retinol found both significantly reduced wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation over twelve weeks – with bakuchiol causing less stinging and scaling.
It is therefore a good fit for fine lines, uneven tone, loss of firmness and mild acne, particularly on sensitive or rosacea-prone skin that retinoids inflame.
What ingredients are best paired with bakuchiol?
It is unusually easy to combine. Bakuchiol layers safely with vitamin C, AHAs, BHAs and niacinamide – combinations that would be risky with a retinoid – and is often used alongside a low-strength retinol to boost results.
Pair it with hyaluronic acid, ceramides and peptides for hydration and firmness, and keep using SPF. Expect a slower, gentler curve than retinol rather than an identical one. Take our Skin Quiz.
What is melasma?
Melasma is a common form of acquired hyperpigmentation that appears as symmetrical brown or greyish-brown patches, most often across the cheeks, forehead, upper lip and jawline. It develops when melanocytes – the pigment-producing cells in the skin – become overactive and deposit excess melanin into the epidermis, the dermis, or both.
It is far more common in women and in medium to deeper skin tones, and it behaves as a chronic, relapsing condition rather than a one-off mark – which is why management matters as much as treatment.
What causes melasma?
Three triggers dominate: ultraviolet and visible light exposure, hormonal change (pregnancy, oral contraceptives and hormone therapy – hence its nickname, the mask of pregnancy), and genetic predisposition.
Heat, visible light from sunlight and screens, inflammation from harsh products or aggressive procedures, and certain medications all make existing patches worse. Because the triggers are ongoing, melasma typically fades and returns rather than clearing permanently.
What ingredients are best for melasma?
Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen is non-negotiable, and a tinted mineral SPF containing iron oxides is best because it also screens the visible light that drives pigment production.
On top of that, the most evidence-backed actives are tranexamic acid, azelaic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C, alpha arbutin, kojic acid, liquorice root extract, retinoids and gentle alpha-hydroxy acids. Avoid harsh scrubs and strong heat, both of which can rebound the pigment. Take our Skin Quiz to build a routine around your skin tone and triggers.
