What is azelaic acid in skincare?
Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid found naturally in grains such as barley, wheat and rye, and produced on the skin by yeast that lives there. Cosmetic products use 10%; prescription strengths are 15% and 20%.
It is unusual among actives in doing several jobs at once – it is antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, mildly keratolytic and a tyrosinase inhibitor – while remaining gentle enough for reactive skin and safe in pregnancy.
What skin concerns does azelaic acid treat?
A systematic review found evidence for azelaic acid across acne, rosacea, melasma and skin ageing – a range few single ingredients cover.
That makes it especially useful where concerns overlap: inflamed breakouts plus the brown marks they leave, or rosacea redness plus uneven tone. Its mechanisms include normalising follicular keratinisation and scavenging reactive oxygen species.
What ingredients are best paired with azelaic acid?
Niacinamide is an excellent partner for redness and sebum control. It also layers well with hyaluronic acid, ceramides and squalane, and can be combined with retinoids or salicylic acid if introduced gradually.
Expect a mild tingle for the first week or two. Because it is one of the few actives considered safe during pregnancy, it is often the substitute of choice when retinoids have to be paused. Take our Skin Quiz.
What is acne?
Acne vulgaris is a chronic inflammatory condition of the pilosebaceous unit – the hair follicle and its attached oil gland. It produces blackheads and whiteheads, inflamed papules and pustules, and in severe cases deep nodules and cysts.
It is the most common skin condition worldwide, and it is not a hygiene problem. Acne begins with a microcomedone forming invisibly inside the follicle, weeks before anything shows on the surface.
What causes acne?
Four mechanisms work together: excess sebum driven by androgens, abnormal shedding of cells inside the follicle, overgrowth of Cutibacterium acnes, and the inflammatory response that follows.
Genetics set the baseline. Hormonal fluctuation, stress, high-glycaemic diets, comedogenic products, friction from masks or helmets, and certain medications all push it further. Over-cleansing and picking make it visibly worse.
What ingredients are best for acne?
Salicylic acid clears inside the pore, benzoyl peroxide reduces bacterial load, and retinoids prevent the plug forming in the first place – that last one is the most valuable long-term.
Azelaic acid and niacinamide reduce inflammation and the marks left behind, and sulphur or clay help oily, congested skin. Keep the barrier intact with a gentle cleanser and a light non-comedogenic moisturiser; stripped skin produces more oil. Take our Skin Quiz.
