What are adaptogens in skincare?
Adaptogens are plants traditionally used to help the body cope with stress – ashwagandha, ginseng, rhodiola, reishi and other medicinal mushrooms, holy basil, schisandra. The term comes from herbal medicine rather than dermatology.
The rationale for putting them in skincare rests on the link between stress and skin: cortisol drives inflammation, impairs the barrier and worsens acne, eczema and psoriasis. Reviews of adaptogen mechanisms describe effects on stress-response pathways at the cellular level.
What skin concerns do adaptogens treat?
Most adaptogens are also potent antioxidants and anti-inflammatories, which is where their topical benefit is clearest – calming redness, defending against free-radical damage, and supporting a barrier that stress has compromised.
The evidence is stronger for oral than topical use: randomised placebo-controlled work on ashwagandha shows measurable reductions in cortisol and stress. Applied to skin, treat them as a good antioxidant and soothing layer rather than a stress cure.
What ingredients are best paired with adaptogens?
They complement other antioxidants – vitamin C, vitamin E, niacinamide, green tea – and sit well alongside ceramides, hyaluronic acid and centella asiatica for barrier and calming work.
If stress is genuinely driving your skin, the routine is only part of the answer: sleep, exercise and the underlying stressor do more than any cream. Speak to a doctor before taking adaptogens orally, particularly with thyroid or autoimmune conditions or in pregnancy. Take our Skin Quiz.
What is redness?
Facial redness is visible dilation of the small blood vessels near the skin’s surface. It ranges from transient flushing that comes and goes, to persistent erythema across the cheeks and nose, to fixed thread veins that stay visible all the time.
Redness is a symptom rather than a diagnosis. It can signal rosacea, irritation, an over-exfoliated barrier, eczema, an allergic reaction or simply reactive skin that responds strongly to heat and stress.
What causes redness?
Most persistent redness traces back to a compromised barrier and heightened nerve sensitivity. When the barrier thins, irritants penetrate more easily and the skin mounts an inflammatory response to things it would normally tolerate.
Common aggravators: over-exfoliation, high-strength actives used too often, fragrance and essential oils, hot water, alcohol, spicy food, sudden temperature change, sun exposure and stress. Trying to treat redness with more actives usually deepens it.
What ingredients are best for redness?
Prioritise calming and rebuilding over correcting. Niacinamide, azelaic acid, centella asiatica, green tea extract, liquorice root, allantoin, bisabolol and colloidal oatmeal all reduce visible inflammation.
Then repair the barrier with ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids, glycerin, panthenol and squalane, and protect it with a gentle mineral SPF. Strip the routine back to cleanser, moisturiser and sunscreen for a few weeks before reintroducing anything active. Take our Skin Quiz.