What is tea tree oil in skincare?
Tea tree oil is an essential oil steam-distilled from the leaves of Melaleuca alternifolia, an Australian shrub used medicinally by Aboriginal communities long before it reached Western pharmacies.
Its active constituent is terpinen-4-ol, which accounts for most of its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity. Quality varies considerably between products, and oil that has oxidised is both less effective and more irritating.
What skin concerns does tea tree oil treat?
Acne is its best-supported use. A comparative trial against benzoyl peroxide found 5% tea tree oil produced a similar reduction in inflamed lesions, more slowly but with markedly fewer side effects.
It is also used for fungal conditions such as athlete’s foot and nail infections, for dandruff, and for insect bites and minor wounds. Its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory action makes it a reasonable spot treatment.
What ingredients are best paired with tea tree oil?
Never apply it undiluted – dilute to around 5% in a carrier such as jojoba or squalane. Pair it with niacinamide and salicylic acid for acne, and with ceramides to protect the barrier.
It is not suitable for delicate or very sensitive skin, and allergic contact dermatitis is relatively common, so always patch test. Store it in dark glass; oxidised tea tree oil is a well-documented sensitiser. Take our Skin Quiz.
What is rosacea?
Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin condition that affects the central face – cheeks, nose, chin and forehead. It presents as persistent redness, visible broken capillaries, flushing that comes and goes, and in some subtypes acne-like papules and pustules.
Unlike acne, rosacea involves no comedones. It is driven by a combination of vascular hyper-reactivity, neurogenic inflammation and an overactive innate immune response, often with an impaired skin barrier alongside.
What causes rosacea?
There is no single cause. Genetic predisposition, an exaggerated immune response involving cathelicidin, overgrowth of Demodex mites, and dysfunction of the facial blood vessels all appear to contribute.
Flares are triggered by heat, sun exposure, alcohol, spicy food, hot drinks, exercise, stress, wind and cold, and by harsh skincare. Identifying and avoiding your own trigger set does as much as any product.
What ingredients are best for rosacea?
Azelaic acid and niacinamide are the standout actives – both reduce redness and inflammation without provoking the barrier. Sulphur, green tea extract, liquorice root and centella asiatica also calm reactive skin.
Build everything else around barrier repair: ceramides, glycerin, squalane and panthenol, with a gentle non-foaming cleanser and a mineral SPF every day. Avoid alcohol-heavy toners, fragrance, menthol, physical scrubs and high-strength acids. Take our Skin Quiz to build a routine your skin will tolerate.
