What is sodium hyaluronate in skincare?
Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid – the form most commonly used in cosmetic formulation. It is more stable, less prone to oxidation and has a smaller molecular size than pure hyaluronic acid.
That smaller size is the practical difference: sodium hyaluronate penetrates the upper epidermis rather than sitting entirely on the surface, so it hydrates within the skin as well as on it.
What skin concerns does sodium hyaluronate treat?
It relieves dehydration, tightness and flakiness in any skin type, and because it is weightless and non-comedogenic it suits oily and acne-prone skin that heavy creams would congest.
Well-hydrated cells sit plumper, which immediately softens fine lines and improves how light reflects off the face. It also makes retinoids and acids more comfortable to use alongside, by keeping the barrier supple.
What ingredients are best paired with sodium hyaluronate?
It draws water in but cannot hold it, so seal it with ceramides, squalane, shea butter or any decent moisturiser applied immediately after, ideally onto slightly damp skin.
It layers with essentially everything – vitamin C, niacinamide, retinoids, peptides, acids. In very dry air, always cover it with an occlusive so it draws moisture from the air rather than from deeper skin. Take our Skin Quiz.
What is melasma?
Melasma is a common form of acquired hyperpigmentation that appears as symmetrical brown or greyish-brown patches, most often across the cheeks, forehead, upper lip and jawline. It develops when melanocytes – the pigment-producing cells in the skin – become overactive and deposit excess melanin into the epidermis, the dermis, or both.
It is far more common in women and in medium to deeper skin tones, and it behaves as a chronic, relapsing condition rather than a one-off mark – which is why management matters as much as treatment.
What causes melasma?
Three triggers dominate: ultraviolet and visible light exposure, hormonal change (pregnancy, oral contraceptives and hormone therapy – hence its nickname, the mask of pregnancy), and genetic predisposition.
Heat, visible light from sunlight and screens, inflammation from harsh products or aggressive procedures, and certain medications all make existing patches worse. Because the triggers are ongoing, melasma typically fades and returns rather than clearing permanently.
What ingredients are best for melasma?
Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen is non-negotiable, and a tinted mineral SPF containing iron oxides is best because it also screens the visible light that drives pigment production.
On top of that, the most evidence-backed actives are tranexamic acid, azelaic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C, alpha arbutin, kojic acid, liquorice root extract, retinoids and gentle alpha-hydroxy acids. Avoid harsh scrubs and strong heat, both of which can rebound the pigment. Take our Skin Quiz to build a routine around your skin tone and triggers.
