What is elastin in skincare?
Elastin is the dermal protein that lets skin stretch and snap back. It makes up a small fraction of dermal protein compared with collagen, but it does all the recoil – collagen provides strength, elastin provides spring.
The body essentially stops producing meaningful new elastin after adolescence, and existing fibres are progressively broken down by UV exposure in the process known as solar elastosis. That is why lost elasticity is harder to reverse than lost collagen.
What skin concerns does elastin treat?
Loss of elastin shows up as sagging, crepiness, skin that stays tented when pinched, and the loose texture around the jaw, neck and under-eyes.
Topical elastin cannot replace what has degraded – the molecule is far too large to reach the dermis – so in creams it acts as a humectant and film-former that smooths the surface. Oral elastin peptides have more support: a randomised placebo-controlled trial of fish-derived elastin peptide found improvements in biophysical properties of ageing skin.
What ingredients are best paired with elastin?
The practical route to elasticity is protecting and stimulating your own fibres. Retinoids and peptides signal fibroblasts to rebuild, vitamin C protects existing fibres from enzymatic breakdown, and daily broad-spectrum SPF prevents further elastosis.
Alongside those, hyaluronic acid, ceramides and squalane keep the skin hydrated and supple, which improves how elastic it looks day to day. Take our Skin Quiz.
What is melasma?
Melasma is a common form of acquired hyperpigmentation that appears as symmetrical brown or greyish-brown patches, most often across the cheeks, forehead, upper lip and jawline. It develops when melanocytes – the pigment-producing cells in the skin – become overactive and deposit excess melanin into the epidermis, the dermis, or both.
It is far more common in women and in medium to deeper skin tones, and it behaves as a chronic, relapsing condition rather than a one-off mark – which is why management matters as much as treatment.
What causes melasma?
Three triggers dominate: ultraviolet and visible light exposure, hormonal change (pregnancy, oral contraceptives and hormone therapy – hence its nickname, the mask of pregnancy), and genetic predisposition.
Heat, visible light from sunlight and screens, inflammation from harsh products or aggressive procedures, and certain medications all make existing patches worse. Because the triggers are ongoing, melasma typically fades and returns rather than clearing permanently.
What ingredients are best for melasma?
Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen is non-negotiable, and a tinted mineral SPF containing iron oxides is best because it also screens the visible light that drives pigment production.
On top of that, the most evidence-backed actives are tranexamic acid, azelaic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C, alpha arbutin, kojic acid, liquorice root extract, retinoids and gentle alpha-hydroxy acids. Avoid harsh scrubs and strong heat, both of which can rebound the pigment. Take our Skin Quiz to build a routine around your skin tone and triggers.
