What is BHA in skincare?
BHA stands for beta-hydroxy acid, and in skincare it almost always means salicylic acid. The defining difference from AHAs is solubility: BHA dissolves in oil, so it can move through sebum and exfoliate inside the pore rather than only on the surface.
It is also anti-inflammatory, which is why a blemish treated with BHA often looks less angry as well as less congested. Typical over-the-counter strengths are 0.5% to 2%.
What skin concerns does BHA treat?
Blackheads, whiteheads, congestion and mild to moderate acne respond best, because BHA clears the plug where it forms. It also smooths rough texture, helps keratosis pilaris and manages body and back breakouts.
Oily and combination skin see the most benefit, though even dry skin can use a low-strength BHA occasionally for congestion around the nose and chin.
What ingredients are best paired with BHA?
Niacinamide is the natural partner – it regulates oil and strengthens the barrier without competing. Hyaluronic acid, ceramides and glycerin replace the moisture exfoliation costs.
Azelaic acid and benzoyl peroxide complement it for acne, usually used at opposite ends of the day. Avoid stacking BHA with AHAs or retinoids in one step until your skin is used to it, and wear SPF daily. Take our Skin Quiz.
What is acne?
Acne vulgaris is a chronic inflammatory condition of the pilosebaceous unit – the hair follicle and its attached oil gland. It produces blackheads and whiteheads, inflamed papules and pustules, and in severe cases deep nodules and cysts.
It is the most common skin condition worldwide, and it is not a hygiene problem. Acne begins with a microcomedone forming invisibly inside the follicle, weeks before anything shows on the surface.
What causes acne?
Four mechanisms work together: excess sebum driven by androgens, abnormal shedding of cells inside the follicle, overgrowth of Cutibacterium acnes, and the inflammatory response that follows.
Genetics set the baseline. Hormonal fluctuation, stress, high-glycaemic diets, comedogenic products, friction from masks or helmets, and certain medications all push it further. Over-cleansing and picking make it visibly worse.
What ingredients are best for acne?
Salicylic acid clears inside the pore, benzoyl peroxide reduces bacterial load, and retinoids prevent the plug forming in the first place – that last one is the most valuable long-term.
Azelaic acid and niacinamide reduce inflammation and the marks left behind, and sulphur or clay help oily, congested skin. Keep the barrier intact with a gentle cleanser and a light non-comedogenic moisturiser; stripped skin produces more oil. Take our Skin Quiz.