What is PHA in skincare?
PHA stands for polyhydroxy acid, the newest generation of chemical exfoliants. The two you will see on labels are gluconolactone and lactobionic acid.
Their molecules are considerably larger than AHAs, so they sit on the surface and exfoliate slowly rather than penetrating quickly. That makes them the gentlest option in the acid family – studies show anti-ageing results comparable to AHAs with noticeably less irritation.
What skin concerns do PHAs treat?
PHAs suit dullness, rough texture, uneven tone and early fine lines on skin that cannot tolerate glycolic or salicylic acid – including rosacea-prone, eczema-prone and generally reactive skin.
They are also humectants, so they hydrate as they exfoliate, and gluconolactone is an antioxidant that protects against UV-induced damage in laboratory models.
What ingredients are best paired with PHAs?
Because they are mild, PHAs layer comfortably with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, ceramides and peptides, and they are often used to introduce exfoliation alongside a retinoid without overwhelming the barrier.
Follow with a moisturiser and daily SPF as with any exfoliant. If stronger acids have left your skin stinging or flushed, swapping to a PHA is usually the sensible step down. Take our Skin Quiz.
What is hormonal acne?
Hormonal acne is acne whose timing and pattern track with hormonal activity rather than with cleansing habits or diet alone. It typically appears along the lower face – jawline, chin and upper neck – as deep, tender papules and cysts that flare on a predictable cycle.
It is most recognisable in adult women, where breakouts often arrive in the week before menstruation and settle again afterwards.
What causes hormonal acne?
Androgens – testosterone and DHT in particular – bind to receptors on the sebaceous gland and increase sebum production. When androgen activity rises or oestrogen falls, oil output climbs and follicles clog more readily.
Menstrual cycles, starting or stopping contraception, pregnancy, perimenopause and PCOS are the usual contexts. Stress raises cortisol, which amplifies the same pathway. Persistent hormonal acne with irregular cycles or excess hair growth is worth investigating medically.
What ingredients are best for hormonal acne?
Retinoids are the most effective topical, because they stop the plug forming regardless of how much oil is being produced. Azelaic acid reduces inflammation and the marks that follow, and niacinamide helps regulate sebum.
Salicylic acid keeps pores clear between flares, and benzoyl peroxide targets bacteria in inflamed lesions. Because hormonal acne is driven from the inside, topicals manage rather than cure it – consistency across the whole cycle beats spot-treating during a flare. Take our Skin Quiz.
